Pakistan is a paradigm example of a failed state that has undergone an extremely dangerous form of radical Islamisation.
Ahhichatragarh Fort (Nagaur Fort)
Hadi Rani Mahal
Although the fort is in a fairly dilapidated state it does house some
beautiful palaces. One of the most beautifully decorated palaces is the Hadi
Rani Mahal which has intricately carved designs all over its walls and ceilings.
It is further embellished by exquisite mural paintings mostly displaying
Maharani Hadi Rani (one of the most well known maharanis of Nagaur) along with
her retinue. It also has a particularly fascinating frescoed ceiling which is
worth travelling miles to see.
Deepak Mahal
The other palace to look out for is the Deepak Mahal which is decorated with
beautiful floral designs from wall to wall. In rain parched Nagaur the temple is
like a breath of fresh air, and it is natural that the desert fiefdom, deprived
of any greenery, painted pictures of beautiful flowers and shrubs. Deepak Mahal
represents a fantasy for the people of Nagaur.
Maharaj Bakhat Singh's Palace at Nagar Fort Bhakt Singh Palace
Also worth looking out for is the Bhakt Singh Palace although the history
behind it is particularly gory. Bhakt Singh was the ruler of Nagaur in the first
half of the 18th century. His brother Abhay Singh was the heir apparent to the
throne of Jodhpur and was persuaded by the Mughals to become the ruler by
murdering his own father. Abhay Singh assigned this task to his brother Bhakt,
promising him Nagaur if he commited the foul deed. Bhakt willingly commited the
patricide and became the ruler of Nagaur and built a splendid palace for himself
inside the ancient fort.
Amar Singh Mahal (Palace)
The fort also houses the Amar Singh Mahal, which is decorated from floor to
ceiling with intricately carved designs. Amar Singh was the ruler of Nagaur
during the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan's reign to avenge the death of a Mughal
courtier called Salabat Khan. The palace is a fitting tribute to his memory.
Although he was cremated on the banks of the Yamuna, his wives commited sati
(self-immolation) in Nagaur itself, and their palm impressions can be found
nearby.
Akbari Mahal
Nearby lies the Akbari Mahal, which was built to commemorate the recapture of
Nagaur by the Mughals from the governor of Ajmer in 1556. The art and
architecture of the palace clearly indicates a confluence of both Rajput and
Mughal art. In fact, the Mughal style and influence can be seen in most of the
airy palaces and pavilions.
Rani Mahal
Also to be found in the fort is the Rani Mahal and the Zenana Deori. The Rani
Mahal was obviously the dwelling place of the wives of the rulers of Nagaur as
was the Zenana Deori. The Zenana Deori has paintings on its ceilings rather
similar to the Sistine Chapel in Rome. They must have had a local Michaelangelo
in their midst in medieval Nagaur. Also in the women's quarters is the Baradari,
which is another residence where the royal ladies lived. It also contains a
small swimming pool. In one of the palaces is also housed an ornate hammam or
bath.
Magnificent Fort Gateways
As seen, the gateways to a fort in Rajasthan are no diminutive ones - as they
were massive stone structures with reinforced doors to ward off elephants and
even cannon shots. Mostly, there are notched parapets at the top of the gates
from where archers could shoot at their tormentors.
The Nagaur Fort Had Three Main Gates
Sireh Pol :
The outermost gate has heavy wooden doors fitted with iron spikes to prevent
elephant charge.
Beech Ka Pol :
This is the second gate of the impressive fort.
Kacheri Pol :
The last gate is known so because it housed the judiciary of Nagaur in
ancient times.
Fort Temples
Ahhichatragarh also houses two temples, the Krishna Mandir and the Ganesh
Mandir dedicated to the two gods respectively. The interior of the Krishna
temple is laced with pictures - from very primitive sketches of cows and
buffaloes (Krishna was a cowherd), to beautiful murals of Lord Krishna in the
company of divine gopis (milkmaids). The Ganesh Mandir has a brick-red façade,
which is in reasonably good shape, and the inner sanctum houses a marble statue
of the elephant god.
Krishan Mandir
The Ahhichatragarh fort houses the Krishan Mandir, dedicated to Lord Krishna.
The interiors of the Krishna temple are decorated with pictures - from very
primitive sketches of cows and buffaloes to beautiful murals of Lord Krishna in
the company of Gopis (milkmaids).
Mosques
The fortress houses the Shah Jahani Mosque, which was built by the Mughal
emperor Shah Jahan during the time when Nagaur was under Mughal control. In a
decrepit state; the mosque is no Taj Mahal but an important historical monument
nonetheless. It represents the time when the Mughals enjoyed uninterrupted power
in Nagaur from the time Akbar conquered it in 1556 to when his grandson Shah
Jahan voluntarily bestowed it to Amar Singh in 1638. A few kilometers away from
the fort is the Akbari Masjid constructed by the Mughal emperor himself in the
16th century. The monument has stood the test of time with the interiors still
quite well preserved although the façade is in a shabby condition. The inner
part is lined with blue tiles and all the inscriptions inside are intact. The
mosque serves a dual purpose as it is used as a madarsa (school) in the morning
where local children assemble for their lessons. However, the main mosque in
Nagaur as in virtually every town and city in India is the Jama Masjid. Located
a short distance away from Ahhichatragarh fort the Masjid is an impressive
monument, and has four huge minarets which are almost as high as a skyscraper.
The monument has become a little worse for wear over the years. Jama is a
corruption of Jumma, which means Friday and is the Muslim holy day. Therefore,
Friday prayers are held in the main mosque across the country.
Shah Jahani Masjid
This masjid within the fortress was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan
during the time when Nagaur was under the Mughal control.
In a frail state ; the mosque is no Taj Mahal but was definately an important
historical monument. In a way, it represents the time when the Mughals enjoyed
uninterruped power in Nagaur from the time Akbar conquered it in 1556 to when
his grandson Shah Jahan voluntarily bestowed it to Amar Singh in 1638
